Short break in Brittany - July 2011

My brother Hugh, and his wife Kate, who own two adjacent cottages in the village of Kerbalanen in Brittany, kindly invited me to join them for a few days at the end of July 2011. Click on any picture to see it full size, and there is one movie which can be selected in the same way.

Saturday July 23 - We meet in Plymouth

The weather is warm and dry, and I set off for Plymouth in no particular hurry, with pack lunch to hand. I get to Plymouth at about 1:30, and go straight to the nearest green space to have my lunch, which is Plym Forest. From there I walk up the river Plym for a couple of hours and return, and then make for the Duke of Cornwall hotel in Plymouth to check in, have a meal, and wait for Hugh and Kate to find me, which they eventually do (11:00 pm) after they have attended a wedding not far away.

July 24 - The outward journey

We board the ferry for its 8:00 am departure, and have a good breakfast once the ferry is under way. The weather remains fine as we take 6 hours to do the crossing to Roscoff, arriving 3:00 pm French time. Roscoff is a pleasant town, so we take a leg stretch before continuing on to Kerbalanen.

And lo, we find that Cirque Bostok is in town. Upon later checking (see youtube) it is a small family circus run by the Dumas family, and I have no idea why they have called themselves Cirque Bostok.
The circus has a rather small 'big top', and camels clearly come into the act, but for now they were enjoying the grass on Roscoff's headland green.

The llamas were also enjoying their time between performances.
Roscoff harbour.

The cottages, Kerbalanen

Hugh and Kate have had a cottage in Kerbalanen for many years now. They started with a small and very low budget cottage at Kerbalanen, which only has 4 cottages. They then bought up the larger neighbouring cottage when its owner moved away, and they have taken down some of the hedging between the two, so it looks natural as a single set of dwellings.

This is the small cottage viewed from the main cottage.
And this is the much larger (longer) main cottage.

The larger cottage added a lot of lawn and garden space as well.
I have to include the front hedges as my small contribution was to smarten them up with the hedge trimmer.

The place is a delight, not least when Kate serves up the evening meal, al fresco.

July 25 - Kergrist Chateau

Kate and Hugh have selected a walk taken from a book, which includes a few chapels, and Kergrist Chateau and the Castle of Tonquedec. It's 11 kilometers, and is a good mix of woodland and riverside paths.

Our first chapel, well tucked away in the forest.
Kate and Hugh pause for a moment among the roses.

Next we encounter an army of free range chickens, intent on saying 'hello'.
The roadsides here are full of colour.

Next to say 'hello' is a mare and her foal.
Then comes a stretch by the river.

We continue across the bridge (half way point)...
to reach the Chateau de Kergrist, where we first take a break, and taste their very excellent home-brewed cider.

The chateau is very imposing, and the gardens were pleasant to walk round, albeit they are left semi-wild.
There are some odd features, such as this tree assembly.

The boundary wall is a most impressive construction.
I couldn't help notice the elaborate signposting of the various footpaths. We were on the yellow path, I think.

Journey's end. We start and end at the Castle of Tonquedec.

July 26 - The coast at Locquirec

Only a couple of photos from this day. Kate and Hugh have selected a coastal walk near Locquirec on the north Brittany coast, and we take a bathe in the somewhat chilly sea.

This is the headland at Locquirec, taken from across the bay.
A further view out to sea.

July 27 - A mixed walk ending on the coast

This was another hot day, and the coast was beckoning. Again we drove to the north coast, and this time found a sign offering a 13km walk, so we went for it. The walk started inland, and ended with a section of the coast path (not quite sure where it was).

Our walk takes us to a chapel and a memorial...
... where I get my picture taken.

It's hot inland, so we are pleased to reach the coast section.
The sea is inviting and crystal clear.

View from the cliff top path.
This is our bathing beach. Looks warm, but the water is chilly.

July 28 - Pen Hir memorials and ruins

Our last day's walking, and we took the slightly longer journey to reach the west coast, choosing the interesting Crozon peninsular. This walk had memorials, museums, WWII bunkers, house ruins, and megaliths a plenty. We also fitted in 3 bathes in a very full day. To cap the day off we dined out well in a restaurant in Carhaix on the return journey.

This walk gets a map; the Crozon peninsular with our walk marked in orange, starting and ending at Point de Pen Hir which is the southernmost point.
The first memorial was this large cross-like structure on the Point de Pen Hir, where we started our walk.

We will be walking across the beach in front (where we bathe), and around the headland it is on.
But on the way we encounter the Musee Memorial of the Merchant Navy, where merchant navy anchors have been used as a dramatic outside exhibit.

Also nearby are the remains of a massive war bunker from WWII.
Next up is a different sort of ruin. These strange towers are all that remain of a fine house built by French poet Saint-Pol-Roux, who died in 1940. The house was destroyed by German bombing in 1944.

The ruins viewed from the coast side.
First bathe is on a west-facing beach, with nice even gradient, excellent for some moderate waves, and some nice and easy surfing, for those with boards.

More surfing joy.
That's the way to do it.

A cutter sails by adding its grace to the idyll.
See some of it in action, albeit pretty wobbly.

What can one say! We are all breaking the law. Nothing could be safer.
A really lovely bay, last look.

The next headland is actually behind protective walls. The headland used to defend Camaret from attack. Now it is a meteorological station and out of bounds.
As we round this headland we see the beautiful harbour of Camaret ahead, and get our second bathe.

Now we have to trek back southwards across the peninsular, which is mostly by road, but we get to meet a large gathering of megalithic stones on the way.
Our final beach is on Point de Pen Hir, but facing SE this time, and we take our final bathe.

July 29 - Brittany's Saints

This is the day I return. Hugh and Kate have saved an interesting visit to this last morning. Indeed, we do our visit before having breakfast. They take me to a place called Tossen Sant Gweltaz, where a project is under way to carve 1000 large granite statues of the Patron Saints associated with Brittany. The site is just a dozen miles from Kerbalanen, being near the town of Carhaix. These photos show something of the progress of this great project.

Tossen Sant Gweltaz is just a place in central Brittany with a well rounded hill, and views of Brittany in all directions. As we approach the site we hear the mason's cutters as they shape their blocks of granite.
The mason's maintain a surprisingly tidy workplace, with finished, and near-finished statues lying around.

This was the only building at the site.
St. Anne is definitely ready to go to her permanent site.

As we reach the hilltop, we see the completed statues already placed there. First to be found is St. Corentin.
Then there is St. Brieuc.

This is St. Pattern.
And this is St. Samson.

Then there is St. Malo, dwarfing his human companions.
I am showing St. Tugdual from behind to show the beautiful setting of this hill. A much loved site, must visit again.

The return ferry was at 3:00 pm arriving at Plymouth at 8:00 pm to a lovely glowing evening. We pass close to the lighthouse at Plymouth harbour.
And those who know Plymouth should recognise the Wheel of Plymouth at Plymouth Hoe, while yachters try to steal each other's breeze.

July 30 - I drive to Woolacoombe

Woolacoombe is a favourite place, on account of its surfing beach. I am booked in to a hotel at nearby Braunston. After driving the 80 miles or so, I do a bit of coastal walking, and then bathe at Woolacoombe at high tide, using my trusty wooden surfboard. The water is amazingly warm compared to France, but the waves are disappointingly weak, only just strong enough to do the surfing.

July 31 - Last day in North Devon

High tide is due at 7:30 pm, so I plan a walk during the middle day, then take another surfing bathe at Woolacoombe about 5:30. This time the waves are stronger.

The walk is based on a section of the Tarka Trail starting at East Buckland, just outside Exmoor National Park. Early on I pass by a large grouse nursery. The grouse were absolutely everywhere, happily flying in and out of their well-fed enclosures.
The walk was pleasantly rural. Few people, lots of willow herb and other flowers.

More of Tarka Trail.
The butterflies were about. Here's a peacock enjoying bramble nectar.

I passed through the pleasant village of Brayford during the round trip.

August 1 - Return to London

I had had a full holiday, and wasn't entirely sure whether to start for home in the morning or leave it to the afternoon. The weather decided for me. This was the only day that dawned with a drizzle, and in Devon anyway it started rather cold. As it happened, once I hit the M4 at Bristol the weather picked up enormously. Having started in Devon at 17 C, the temperature had turned to 28 C by Bristol, and stayed that way for the rest of the day.

Saturday July 23 - We meet in Plymouth
The weather is warm and dry, and I set off for Plymouth in no particular hurry, with pack lunch to hand. I get to Plymouth at about 1:30, and go straight to the nearest green space to have my lunch, which is Plym Forest. From there I walk up the river Plym for a couple of hours and return, and then make for the Duke of Cornwall hotel in Plymouth to check in, have a meal, and wait for Hugh and Kate to find me, which they eventually do (11:00 pm) after they have attended a wedding not far away.
July 24 - The outward journey
We board the ferry for its 8:00 am departure, and have a good breakfast once the ferry is under way. The weather remains fine as we take 6 hours to do the crossing to Roscoff, arriving 3:00 pm French time. Roscoff is a pleasant town, so we take a leg stretch before continuing on to Kerbalanen.
And lo, we find that Cirque Bostok is in town. Upon later checking (see youtube) it is a small family circus run by the Dumas family, and I have no idea why they have called themselves Cirque Bostok.			The circus has a rather small 'big top', and camels clearly come into the act, but for now they were enjoying the grass on Roscoff's headland green.
The llamas were also enjoying their time between performances.			Roscoff harbour.
The cottages, Kerbalanen
Hugh and Kate have had a cottage in Kerbalanen for many years now. They started with a small and very low budget cottage at Kerbalanen, which only has 4 cottages. They then bought up the larger neighbouring cottage when its owner moved away, and they have taken down some of the hedging between the two, so it looks natural as a single set of dwellings.
This is the small cottage viewed from the main cottage.			And this is the much larger (longer) main cottage.
The larger cottage added a lot of lawn and garden space as well.			I have to include the front hedges as my small contribution was to smarten them up with the hedge trimmer.
The place is a delight, not least when Kate serves up the evening meal, al fresco.
July 25 - Kergrist Chateau
Kate and Hugh have selected a walk taken from a book, which includes a few chapels, and Kergrist Chateau and the Castle of Tonquedec. It's 11 kilometers, and is a good mix of woodland and riverside paths.
Our first chapel, well tucked away in the forest.			Kate and Hugh pause for a moment among the roses.
Next we encounter an army of free range chickens, intent on saying 'hello'.			The roadsides here are full of colour.
Next to say 'hello' is a mare and her foal.			Then comes a stretch by the river.
We continue across the bridge (half way point)...			to reach the Chateau de Kergrist, where we first take a break, and taste their very excellent home-brewed cider.
The chateau is very imposing, and the gardens were pleasant to walk round, albeit they are left semi-wild.			There are some odd features, such as this tree assembly.
The boundary wall is a most impressive construction.			I couldn't help notice the elaborate signposting of the various footpaths. We were on the yellow path, I think.
Journey's end. We start and end at the Castle of Tonquedec.
July 26 - The coast at Locquirec
Only a couple of photos from this day. Kate and Hugh have selected a coastal walk near Locquirec on the north Brittany coast, and we take a bathe in the somewhat chilly sea.
This is the headland at Locquirec, taken from across the bay.			A further view out to sea.
July 27 - A mixed walk ending on the coast
This was another hot day, and the coast was beckoning. Again we drove to the north coast, and this time found a sign offering a 13km walk, so we went for it. The walk started inland, and ended with a section of the coast path (not quite sure where it was).
Our walk takes us to a chapel and a memorial...			... where I get my picture taken.
It's hot inland, so we are pleased to reach the coast section.			The sea is inviting and crystal clear.
View from the cliff top path.			This is our bathing beach. Looks warm, but the water is chilly.
July 28 - Pen Hir memorials and ruins
Our last day's walking, and we took the slightly longer journey to reach the west coast, choosing the interesting Crozon peninsular. This walk had memorials, museums, WWII bunkers, house ruins, and megaliths a plenty. We also fitted in 3 bathes in a very full day. To cap the day off we dined out well in a restaurant in Carhaix on the return journey.
This walk gets a map; the Crozon peninsular with our walk marked in orange, starting and ending at Point de Pen Hir which is the southernmost point.			The first memorial was this large cross-like structure on the Point de Pen Hir, where we started our walk.
We will be walking across the beach in front (where we bathe), and around the headland it is on.			But on the way we encounter the Musee Memorial of the Merchant Navy, where merchant navy anchors have been used as a dramatic outside exhibit.
Also nearby are the remains of a massive war bunker from WWII.			Next up is a different sort of ruin. These strange towers are all that remain of a fine house built by French poet Saint-Pol-Roux, who died in 1940. The house was destroyed by German bombing in 1944.
The ruins viewed from the coast side.			First bathe is on a west-facing beach, with nice even gradient, excellent for some moderate waves, and some nice and easy surfing, for those with boards.
More surfing joy.			That's the way to do it.
A cutter sails by adding its grace to the idyll.			See some of it in action, albeit pretty wobbly.
What can one say! We are all breaking the law. Nothing could be safer.			A really lovely bay, last look.
The next headland is actually behind protective walls. The headland used to defend Camaret from attack. Now it is a meteorological station and out of bounds.			As we round this headland we see the beautiful harbour of Camaret ahead, and get our second bathe.
Now we have to trek back southwards across the peninsular, which is mostly by road, but we get to meet a large gathering of megalithic stones on the way.			Our final beach is on Point de Pen Hir, but facing SE this time, and we take our final bathe.
July 29 - Brittany's Saints
This is the day I return. Hugh and Kate have saved an interesting visit to this last morning. Indeed, we do our visit before having breakfast. They take me to a place called Tossen Sant Gweltaz, where a project is under way to carve 1000 large granite statues of the Patron Saints associated with Brittany. The site is just a dozen miles from Kerbalanen, being near the town of Carhaix. These photos show something of the progress of this great project.
Tossen Sant Gweltaz is just a place in central Brittany with a well rounded hill, and views of Brittany in all directions. As we approach the site we hear the mason's cutters as they shape their blocks of granite.			The mason's maintain a surprisingly tidy workplace, with finished, and near-finished statues lying around.
This was the only building at the site.			St. Anne is definitely ready to go to her permanent site.
As we reach the hilltop, we see the completed statues already placed there. First to be found is St. Corentin.			Then there is St. Brieuc.
This is St. Pattern.			And this is St. Samson.
Then there is St. Malo, dwarfing his human companions.			I am showing St. Tugdual from behind to show the beautiful setting of this hill. A much loved site, must visit again.
The return ferry was at 3:00 pm arriving at Plymouth at 8:00 pm to a lovely glowing evening. We pass close to the lighthouse at Plymouth harbour.			And those who know Plymouth should recognise the Wheel of Plymouth at Plymouth Hoe, while yachters try to steal each other's breeze.
July 30 - I drive to Woolacoombe
Woolacoombe is a favourite place, on account of its surfing beach. I am booked in to a hotel at nearby Braunston. After driving the 80 miles or so, I do a bit of coastal walking, and then bathe at Woolacoombe at high tide, using my trusty wooden surfboard. The water is amazingly warm compared to France, but the waves are disappointingly weak, only just strong enough to do the surfing.
July 31 - Last day in North Devon
High tide is due at 7:30 pm, so I plan a walk during the middle day, then take another surfing bathe at Woolacoombe about 5:30. This time the waves are stronger.
The walk is based on a section of the Tarka Trail starting at East Buckland, just outside Exmoor National Park. Early on I pass by a large grouse nursery. The grouse were absolutely everywhere, happily flying in and out of their well-fed enclosures.			The walk was pleasantly rural. Few people, lots of willow herb and other flowers.
More of Tarka Trail.			The butterflies were about. Here's a peacock enjoying bramble nectar.
I passed through the pleasant village of Brayford during the round trip.

August 1 - Return to London
I had had a full holiday, and wasn't entirely sure whether to start for home in the morning or leave it to the afternoon. The weather decided for me. This was the only day that dawned with a drizzle, and in Devon anyway it started rather cold. As it happened, once I hit the M4 at Bristol the weather picked up enormously. Having started in Devon at 17 C, the temperature had turned to 28 C by Bristol, and stayed that way for the rest of the day.